How To Replace Suspension Bushings

This job requires a tube of lube, a vice or clamps, jack stands, a floor jack, a torque wrench, a flat head screwdriver, open end wrenches, something to catch gas, and a receptacle for brake fluid.

Install a scanner to the diagnostic connector and observe the “Turbine” Bushings and Plain Bearings “Output” speed sensor readings when slowing to a stop and ensure that both readings drop to “0” when the vehicle is completely stopped. If you have a “Snap-on” scanner and have “Scan Graphics” or you have a “Scope” you can more accurately determine whether the speed sensors are working correctly or not, by observing their output signal for erratic patterns. If you do not have the luxury of having these options then “Arm” or “Record” a movie of your road test and pay close attention to the steady drop of the speed sensor rpm’s., when slowing to a stop. An erratic rpm. drop or a slow rpm. drop may indicate a speed sensor problem.

Turning to the wheel sets, carefully examine the drive rods and journals for wear. Clean the wheels with denatured alcohol including the tires. On the shafts of each wheel, there should be a set of bushings or bearings. Gently clean the drive wheel shafts and bushings/bearings with the denatured alcohol.

The DXA-2s is rugged, compact and mounts securely to the tripod Plain Sleeve Bearing on the under side of your camcorder. Using this device allows you to attach two balanced XLR audio devices to your camcorder. Recording two audio channels allows for maximum versatility during editing. .

Once you have test fit the new bushings, put the new bushings in one side at a time. I used a little bit of anti-seize lubricant to ease the new bushings in and to make sure that the new bushings could move.

#9 If the trolley has moved one way or the other, reposition it to its original position and slide the motor housing back over the shaft, then secure. Plug the 4 pin connector in all the way and give that big black circular cup a good push back on the shaft to make sure it’s on.

I own a ’91 Chevy S10 pickup, 4-cylinder. The oil gauge goes spastic at times. Also, the pressure runs low on the gauge when it isn’t acting up. Finally, nearly every time the vehicle turns left I hear this loud popping, clunking sound. Any idea what that could be?

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